I previously described the fundamentals for proper preparation (see Part 1) and explored the notion of using classics as a recipe blueprint (see Part 2). In this part I will describe how to build upon classics to create original, new cocktail recipes.
As we keep in mind what we have learned from the previous two parts, let’s begin to put the knowledge into practice. In this part I will use examples to describe different approaches and advanced techniques to enhance complexity and depth.
In this first example I use the negroni as the origin of recipe to build upon. The negroni is one of my favorite classics, it has considerable depth and flavor making it an excellent candidate to explore new recipes with. The classic negroni recipe is equal parts: gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari; stirred, served on the rocks, topped with soda water and garnished with a flamed orange twist. A recipe that I recently stumped across on Instagram from @LRobitschek was a Jitney Negroni. This is a perfect example of an original recipe crafted from a classic. In this example the Jitney negroni uses mezcal in place of gin and equal parts blanco vermouth and a coffee-infused dry vermouth in place of the sweet vermouth; Campari is still used as the bitter liqueur. Additionally, a small amount of absinthe is added and the orange twist is swapped for a grapefruit twist. The recipe is as follows:
Jitney Negroni:
¾ oz Mezcal (Sombra)
¾ oz Campari
½ oz Blanco vermouth (Cinzano)
½ oz Dry vermouth infused with coffee (Cinzano)*
2 dashes absinthe
Combine all ingredients in mixing glass with ice, stir well and strain into tumbler with large ice cube. Top with soda water and garnish with grapefruit twist.
*Coffee infused vermouth prepared by adding 12 g of coarsely ground coffee to 2 oz of vermouth and macerating for 15 minutes. Strain through coffee filters and store refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
The Jitney negroni is a great example of a cocktail crafted from a classic. It is tasty, satisfying and has multiple layers of complexity; the smokiness of the mezcal, the sweetness of the vermouth, the bitterness of the Campari, the herbal undertones from the absinthe, the nuttiness of the coffee and the citrus from grapefruit garnish all contribute to a sensory experience that is elegantly harmonious. To better describe the complexity experienced during tasting, the flavor profile was stratified chronologically based on order of aromas/tastes perceived.
| Pre-taste | Dominating wafts of smoke, grapefruit and anise. |
| Taste – 1st | Subtle grapefruit flavor and sweetness from the vermouth and Campari |
| Taste – 2nd | Fruitiness/nuttiness from the coffee |
| Taste – 3rd | Petroleum and smoke from the mezcal |
| Taste – 4th | Dryness/bitterness from the Campari and coffee |
| Taste – 5th | Subtle anise/herbaceous notes from the absinthe |
In the previous example, we viewed some techniques that can be used to impart additional layers of complexity. One of those was adding a subtle amount of an aromatic spirit or liqueur, in this case absinthe which imparted additional layers of aroma and flavor. Absinthe is a fun ingredient to season cocktails with, it is herbaceous and potently aromatic1. Often mixologists will add it as a float, in dashes (using a dasher top2), as a fine mist (misto3) or as a rinse (i.e. lined; see lining a glass from part 1). Other ingredients that can be used to season cocktails are peaty scotch, mezcal, amaro and other herbaceous spirits (e.g. fernet branca), anise liqueurs (e.g. pastis), herbal liqueurs (e.g. green chartreuse), blackstrap rum, and many others.
The other technique used is infusion which allows different flavors to be added to a spirit4. In this example, coffee was infused into a dry vermouth through a simple maceration. Maceration is a chemical process in which a solvent (e.g. alcohol) is used to extract chemical compounds. In this case, vermouth is used to extract aromas and flavors from ground coffee beans. Fat washing is another infusion technique that uses maceration to extract flavors/aromas from oil/fat such as olive oil, coconut oil, duck fat and butter into the spirit5.
Another example of a tasty, original cocktail recipe that stems from a classic is A State of Oaxaca. This drink was formulated on a slow day behind the bar during my days of bartending at 4 Olives Restaurant and Wine Bar. This take on the classic margarita uses tequila, lime juice, grapefruit juice, a spiced orange liqueur (Clément creole shrubb), an herbal liqueur (Green Chartreuse), and a mezcal rinse.
A State of Oaxaca:
1 ½ oz Blanco Tequila (Milagro Silver, 100% de agave)
½ oz Spiced Orange Liqueur (Clément creole shrubb)
½ oz Green Chartreuse
½ oz Lime Juice
½ oz Grapefruit Juice
¼ oz Agave syrup
Mezcal Rinse
Line glass with mezcal and leave in. Combine all ingredients in shaker with ice, shake hard for 30 seconds and double strain into a coupe or martini glass. Garnish with grapefruit twist.
The State of Oaxaca has been a popular cocktail even for those who may be less inclined to drink mezcal. It provides the right amount of smokiness combined with the tartness of the lime juice, the bitterness of the grapefruit, the unique Chartreuse-herbaceous notes, subtle spice and fruitiness from the orange shrubb and earthiness of the tequila.
| Pre-taste | Subtle hints of smoke and herbal notes from the Chartreuse. |
| Taste – 1st | Sweetness from the agave syrup/liqueurs and tartness from the lime juice |
| Taste – 2nd | Herbaceous notes from the Chartreuse |
| Taste – 3rd | Earthiness from the tequila |
| Taste – 4th | Bitterness from the Campari |
| Taste – 5th | Nuttiness from the coffee |
Similar to how the absinthe was used earlier, the Mezcal is added in subtle amounts to impart a smokey aroma and additional depth to the drinking experience. Mezcal is a complex spirit and finding the right one is often key to imparting the correct flavor profile6. In the previous example, Sombra has been traditionally used which imparts a sweeter, more approachable smokey profile but Del Maguey Vida can be subbed providing a more intensely smoke-filled experience.
In addition to what I have presented in this three part series, a wealth of knowledge and resources can be found in many books and throughout the web. But one of the best ways to learn is visually – YouTube has some fantastic video series. One of my favorites is by betterbooktv, their speakeasy cocktails playlist is very informative and easy to follow. Highly recommended7. Cheers!
References
- https://punchdrink.com/articles/how-to-season-cocktails-with-spirits-and-liqueurs/
- https://www.cocktailkingdom.com/all-barware/bitters-bottle-100ml-copper-dasher-top
- https://www.cocktailkingdom.com/all-barware/atomizer-50ml
- https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-infuse-spirits-760696
- https://drinks.seriouseats.com/2014/04/science-fat-washing-spirits-cocktails-how-fatwashing-works.html
- http://mezcalphd.com/2013/09/what-does-mezcal-taste-like/
- https://www.youtube.com/user/betterbooktv/playlists
